My leopard gecko's tank humidity is 65%. Is it bad for health?

50% humidity is a bit too high. Ideally, it should range between 30 and 40%. Consider a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) which will emit heat without visible light. Prolonged periods of high humidity may promote bacterial or fungal overgrowth and could predispose Calvin to respiratory infection.

Use a screen cover for the enclosure if you aren't using one already. Move the water dish away from the basking light to minimize evaporation. A dehumidifier in the room may be necessary if you live in a humid area of the country.

Thanks for your question about Leo lela, and I am sorry that this is happening to you both! Typically leopard geckos should shed all of their skin in a short period of time, and they often eat it so owners may not realize they have shed at all. When we see shed sticking around, like in Leo lela's case, we begin to worry about dysecdysis (retained shed). This is common when there are imperfections in the husbandry that is provided. Most frequently, there is not enough humidity present. For leopard geckos, we recommend having a humid hide available for them that is lined with moist sphagnum moss. It is recommended to have a humid hide on the warm end of the enclosure as well as the cool end to provide your gecko with options regarding humidity. As far as him being lighter - I am not sure if you mean lighter in color, which may be associated with the shedding, or lighter in weight. If you mean lighter in weight, then I would be concerned that he has an underlying issue occurring. To help him with shedding, you can soak Leo lela once daily in 85-90F water. This will also help any skin around his toes, which is often hard to see, to shed as well. I would also recommend having him evaluated by a veterinarian when you can. It is beneficial for reptiles to have wellness examinations, just like dogs and cats. Your veterinarian can also provide you with detailed information on husbandry that is tailored to Leo lela after his physical examination has been performed. You can look at the ARAV website to find a reptile veterinarian in your area. I hope this gives you a place to start, and I wish you the best of luck!

Increase air flow in the enclosure. You can use a small fan to blow over the cage or in the room. A sack (or sock) filled with plain, uncooked rice can also help decrease humidity. Hang it where your python cannot reach it. You can also use a small water bowl in the cage.

I think that you are right to be concerned about Geo. With the previous lack of humidity and inappropriate husbandry, I would be worried that she may have an impaction. When impactions occur in the intestinal tract or colon, it does not allow additional food to pass through the intestines. This eventually will lead to regurgitation. This is a common finding in geckos that have not had appropriate husbandry. The regurgitation may also be due to her not feeling well - just like when we get sick, reptiles can become nauseous. This is less of a specific sign and can be due to numerous diseases. I would recommend taking Geo in for evaluation by a veterinarian. They can perform a thorough physical examination and see if they suspect an impaction based on palpation of the coelom (feeling the belly). Depending on what they find, they may recommend diagnostics or treatments for Geo. I know that you have already increased the humidity, but it may also be a good idea to soak Geo in 85-90 F water for 15-20 minutes twice daily. This may encourage her to drink (although many leopard geckos do not like to soak, even though it is good for them :) ) and hydrate. I hope this gives you a place to start, and I hope that Geo feels better soon!

It may be a bacterial or fungal infection. A mass or foreign body are also possibilities. Have her examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet. Without a diagnosis, treatment of any kind would not be recommended. Cage temps can range from room temperature to the mid 80s F. A basking spot of 90 F is recommended. High humidity can promote bacterial growth or respiratory infection. Ideally, it should range between 20-40%.

Thanks for reaching out about Ruby. The tank needs to be warmed to 95-100 F in the basking area and no place in the tank should drop below 80F at night. UVB spectrum is important as is the proper diet. Anorexia for 3-4 weeks is serious and a veterinary visit is recommended to assess and provide a diagnostic/ treatment plan. Intestinal parasites, infections, malnutrition and others are possible. Good luck.