My bearded dragon eats bugs but won't eat veggies. What can I do?

Thanks for reaching out about Smaug and including photos. Adult bearded dragons are omnivorous eating bugs and vegetation. With the vegetables, red, yellow and orange vegetables are also important. Insect have inverse calcium to phosphorus ratio and are a poor long term diet. Gut loading the insects is important to provide appropriate nutrients. If he doesn't get as much bugs, he might be hungry and eat the vegetables. By the photos, he is a little overweight indicated by the thickness of the tail and fat pads in the axillary (armpit) area. Good luck.

Some of it depends on the age of the beardie. If young, make sure any live food is small enough for it. Meal works, crickets or even pinkie mice Here's a good recipe for a reptile salad. Basic Salad Recipe 1/2 cup shredded raw green beans 1/2 cup shredded raw orange-fleshed squash (such as acorn, banana, kabocha, spaghetti, and pumpkin) - you can occasionally alternate with carrots 1 medium or 2 small raw shredded parsnips (in areas where these are seasonally hard to find, you can substitute with asparagus or cooked or canned lima, navy or kidney beans that have been well rinsed and minced or mashed. If you use beans, add extra calcium to offset their high phosphorus) * 1/4 cup mashed/minced fruit (strawberries, raspberries, mangos, papaya, figs, cantaloupe, cactus pear) Alfalfa ** Multivitamin and calcium supplements * If parsnips are a seasonal vegetable where you live, you can use 1/2 cup shredded asparagus, trading off with 1/2 cup drained, rinsed, and chopped canned cooked lima beans, plus additional calcium to make up for the lousy calcium:phosphorus ratio in beans. Cooked beans are acceptable for short term use only due to their phosphorous content and other chemicals that can impede the uptake of minerals and trace elements. Asparagus is comparable in protein to parsnip, but does contain oxalates, so should not be a long-term staple. ** The quantity of alfalfa you use will depend upon the alfalfa product you are using. You want to add about 15 grams of protein. That is about 1/2 cup of alfalfa rabbit pellets, or about 1/4 cup or less of alfalfa leaf tea or a tablespoon or so of alfalfa powder. The older the healthy iguana is, the less protein they need, so you may end up using only a couple of teaspoons for an adult iguana. Thoroughly mix all the Basic Salad Recipe ingredients together. Makes about 3.5-4 cups. Add in a multivitamin supplement (any multivitamin supplement for birds or reptiles is fine, but the best, actually, is powder from a crushed Centrum tablet) and a calcium supplement. You do not need to get a calcium supplement that has phosphorous or D3 in it, as the iguana is already getting considerably phosphorous from the plants and multivitamin, and their D3 is best manufactured in their bodies by regular exposure to direct sunlight or special UVB-producing fluorescents. And more good info on husbandry and feeding isnhere. If temperature is not correct they also may not eat. http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html

Feed him as many appropriately sized (no bigger than the space between his eyes) crickets or dubia roaches as he will eat in 10-15 minutes. Baby beardies are eating machines consuming as many as 80 crickets or more daily! Juveniles will eat more live pretty than vegetables. Offer about a tablespoon or two of finely chopped spring mix for him. Change it daily. You can also offer squash, peppers, asparagus, pumpkin and yams just to name a few other veggies. Avoid iceberg lettuce, celery and light colored greens. These offer little in the way of nutrition.

Reptiles can be very subtle in showing when they don't feel well, and often a decrease in appetite is the only sign that they will show. Sometimes they will only be willing to eat their favorite items, so that may be a reason that Cosmo is eating certain things. Alternatively, they may be easier for him to eat somehow as well. Another hard part about reptiles is that they take a long time to show that they are sick, so something could have been going on with Cosmo for quite a while and he just hasn't shown you until now. I would recommend having Cosmo evaluated by a veterinarian due to the decrease in appetite. They will evaluate your husbandry and diet for Cosmo, and may make recommendations for them. This may include adjustments in the diet, as the items you are feeding right now have a great deal of calcium oxalates in them. Calcium oxalates can decrease absorption of calcium by the body, and calcium is very important in reptiles. The items that you are feeding with calcium oxalates include kale, mustard greens, and collard greens. These items should be fed a maximum of 1-2 times per week. Protein in the diet (insects) should be fed about twice weekly. In addition to a husbandry evaluation, your veterinarian may recommend blood work to evaluate systemic health, as well as radiographs (x-rays) to ensure that Cosmo's bones look like they have enough calcium in them.

Yes, you can do this but it should not be the main part of this diet so use it sparingly. There is a "salad dressing" you can get for beardies that may entice him to eat that would probably work better. ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJBRHTE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00DJBRHTE&linkCode=as2&tag=bdlife-20 ) I suggest you refer to this article about how to train your beardie to eat veggies. ( https://www.beardeddragoncare101.com/train-bearded-dragon-eat-vegetables/ )

I commend you on adopting such a wonderful creature! She may need time to adjust to her new home and enclosure. Make sure it is large enough for her and located away from loud noises, vibrations, direct sunlight or high traffic areas. The commercial pellets are an excellent diet. You should also offer dark, leafy greens, diced vegetables and prey such as crickets or dubia roaches. These can be purchased from your local pet store. Gut load prey for 24 hours prior to offering to maximize nutritional value. Dust with a calcium supplement 3-5 times per week. Use a multivitamin 2-3 times per week. Make sure the temperature in her enclosure is appropriate. Low temps can affect appetite and activity in reptiles. The cage should be in the mid 70s F on the cool side and mid to high 80s F on the warm side. A basking spot of 90-100 F is recommended. She will also need a UVB light source running the length of her cage and about 12-14 inches away. This is vital for calcium, metabolism. You can soak her in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte for 20-30 minutes to warm her up and to rehydrate her. If her appetite does not return, have her rechecked by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles to diagnose illness or injury. Submit a stool sample to diagnose intestinal parasites.

Confirm proper temperatures. Low temps can affect activity, appetite and digestion in reptiles. Soak Jax in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte. This will provide heat and may treat or prevent mild dehydration. Be sure prey is appropriately sized, no bigger than the space between the eyes. Look for pinhead crickets or freshly hatched/molted dubia roaches. Gutload them for 24 hours prior to offering to maximize nutritional value. Fluker's Repti-Boost can be used as a supplement. If Jax does not begin eating, have him examined by your veterinarian or an experienced herp vet to diagnose illness or injury.