New bearded dragon owner? Feeding, light schedule, and bonding guide.

Good questions. Since Bearded Dragons are omnivores, you want limit the amount of crickets (and other insects) you feed them, so they are motivated to eat the veggies. You can do this by having a daily feed time. It's not easy to know exactly how many to feed at a certain time, because it depends on their size. I would start with 12. If this seems like too much (he doesn't eat them within a day), then cut back till it seems adequate. Remember, you want a few hours where he only has vegetables to eat. If he/she eats them all right away, then you can add some more. You want the UV lamp to mimic daylight, so it should not be on longer than 12 hours. I always used a timer with my lamps, or I'd invariably leave them on or off for too long. I've included a link to a very helpful website that has great information on how to care for Bearded Dragons. It's highly recommended you read this for the best care of your Beardy. http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html Good luck and enjoy - they make great pets!

Some of it depends on the age of the beardie. If young, make sure any live food is small enough for it. Meal works, crickets or even pinkie mice Here's a good recipe for a reptile salad. Basic Salad Recipe 1/2 cup shredded raw green beans 1/2 cup shredded raw orange-fleshed squash (such as acorn, banana, kabocha, spaghetti, and pumpkin) - you can occasionally alternate with carrots 1 medium or 2 small raw shredded parsnips (in areas where these are seasonally hard to find, you can substitute with asparagus or cooked or canned lima, navy or kidney beans that have been well rinsed and minced or mashed. If you use beans, add extra calcium to offset their high phosphorus) * 1/4 cup mashed/minced fruit (strawberries, raspberries, mangos, papaya, figs, cantaloupe, cactus pear) Alfalfa ** Multivitamin and calcium supplements * If parsnips are a seasonal vegetable where you live, you can use 1/2 cup shredded asparagus, trading off with 1/2 cup drained, rinsed, and chopped canned cooked lima beans, plus additional calcium to make up for the lousy calcium:phosphorus ratio in beans. Cooked beans are acceptable for short term use only due to their phosphorous content and other chemicals that can impede the uptake of minerals and trace elements. Asparagus is comparable in protein to parsnip, but does contain oxalates, so should not be a long-term staple. ** The quantity of alfalfa you use will depend upon the alfalfa product you are using. You want to add about 15 grams of protein. That is about 1/2 cup of alfalfa rabbit pellets, or about 1/4 cup or less of alfalfa leaf tea or a tablespoon or so of alfalfa powder. The older the healthy iguana is, the less protein they need, so you may end up using only a couple of teaspoons for an adult iguana. Thoroughly mix all the Basic Salad Recipe ingredients together. Makes about 3.5-4 cups. Add in a multivitamin supplement (any multivitamin supplement for birds or reptiles is fine, but the best, actually, is powder from a crushed Centrum tablet) and a calcium supplement. You do not need to get a calcium supplement that has phosphorous or D3 in it, as the iguana is already getting considerably phosphorous from the plants and multivitamin, and their D3 is best manufactured in their bodies by regular exposure to direct sunlight or special UVB-producing fluorescents. And more good info on husbandry and feeding isnhere. If temperature is not correct they also may not eat. http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html

It sounds like you are doing just fine but I would say that the insects should be offered only once per day. So when you feed him, give him as many insects as he can eat within a 10-15 minute time frame and then remove the remaining insects from their tank. Fresh salads should be offered daily and consist of greens such as collards, dandelions or mustard greens as their staple vegetables (should be included in every salad). When you give your beardie insects you will need to make sure that the insect isn't too big. If it is longer than the space between it's eyes, then it is too large. Insects should be sprinkled with some calcium and a multivitamin before feeding. VERY IMPORTANT!! Hope this helps. Best wishes!

Feed him as many appropriately sized (no bigger than the space between his eyes) crickets or dubia roaches as he will eat in 10-15 minutes. Baby beardies are eating machines consuming as many as 80 crickets or more daily! Juveniles will eat more live pretty than vegetables. Offer about a tablespoon or two of finely chopped spring mix for him. Change it daily. You can also offer squash, peppers, asparagus, pumpkin and yams just to name a few other veggies. Avoid iceberg lettuce, celery and light colored greens. These offer little in the way of nutrition.

The black beard Is indeed an indication of stress or anger. It may be due to his new surroundings or something could be wrong in his environment. You can review care and feeding here: http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html Confirm proper temps and humidity. Also, provide a hide large enough for him to enter on each side of his enclosure. As long as Boris is at least 16-17 inches long, superworms are fine to feed. Gut load them for 24 hours prior to offering to maximize nutritional value. For variety, you can offer appropriately sized crickets, dubia roaches or phoenix worms. Try offering greens in the morning about an hour or two after the heat lamp comes on. He may be hungrier at this time. Once he eats his greens, you can offer prey. Sometimes, a sprinkle of dried mealworms on the greens will stimulate the appetite. Since he is "new" to you, an exam with your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles would be recommended to confirm good health or to diagnose and treat any preexisting conditions.

It can be normal for a juvenile beardie to shed frequently. Monthly sheds are not unheard of up until one year of age. Soak him daily for 10 minutes in warm water or provide a moist hide to facilitate shedding. If he won't eat greens, you can try mixing in small meal worms, waxworms or hornworms in with greens. Provide a varied diet with proper supplementation of calcium/D3 (3-5x/week) and multivitamins(2-3x/week). As he matures, his appetite and growth will level off.

I commend you on adopting such a wonderful creature! She may need time to adjust to her new home and enclosure. Make sure it is large enough for her and located away from loud noises, vibrations, direct sunlight or high traffic areas. The commercial pellets are an excellent diet. You should also offer dark, leafy greens, diced vegetables and prey such as crickets or dubia roaches. These can be purchased from your local pet store. Gut load prey for 24 hours prior to offering to maximize nutritional value. Dust with a calcium supplement 3-5 times per week. Use a multivitamin 2-3 times per week. Make sure the temperature in her enclosure is appropriate. Low temps can affect appetite and activity in reptiles. The cage should be in the mid 70s F on the cool side and mid to high 80s F on the warm side. A basking spot of 90-100 F is recommended. She will also need a UVB light source running the length of her cage and about 12-14 inches away. This is vital for calcium, metabolism. You can soak her in a warm 50/50 solution of water and unflavored PediaLyte for 20-30 minutes to warm her up and to rehydrate her. If her appetite does not return, have her rechecked by your veterinarian or a vet experienced in treating reptiles to diagnose illness or injury. Submit a stool sample to diagnose intestinal parasites.